In the world of antique jewellery, few pieces capture the imagination quite like Georgian cannetille gold ornaments. These treasures from a bygone era blend intricate craftsmanship with timeless elegance, often leaving admirers in awe of their beauty and historical significance. Today, let's look at a recent appraisal of a remarkable Georgian cannetille gold and aquamarine pendant, shedding light on its craftsmanship, materials, and the fascinating era that it was created in.
Description of the pendant
The pendant, measuring 6cm x 4.5cm, is adorned with delicate filigree work and is heavily gilded, some of the gilding slightly worn. This pendant boasts a sophisticated design, complete with an articulated bale and a brooch pin for versatile wearing options. What truly catches the eye are the fourteen faceted pale blue stones, each adding a touch of ethereal beauty to the piece. There's no hallmark visible, but this isn’t uncommon for pieces of that time. Upon first glance this pendant looks as if it might be costume jewellery, the heavy gilding and bright stones look a little like antique fashion jewellery of the time.
Understanding Cannetille
Cannetille, closely related to filigree work, is characterized by the use of fine gold wires or thinly hammered sheets. This intricate style of jewellery was highly fashionable during the 1820s and 1830s. Common motifs included delicate tendrils, scrolls, coils, beehives, and spider-like rosette ornaments. Often, jewellery featuring cannetille was adorned with granulation and thinly stamped metals. Initially, stamped metals were disk-shaped, but floral and shell motifs later gained popularity.
Pieces were often enhanced with colourful gemstones such as aquamarine, pink topaz, amethyst, and chrysoberyl. In central Europe, garnets, turquoise, and opals were also used. These stones, though not as costly as diamonds, added elegance without significant expense. Typically, the stones were set in closed backs and foiled to ensure a uniform hue, though some rare pieces featured open settings with diamonds and enamel.
The inspiration for cannetille work is said to come from traditional embroidery, possibly originating from 18th-century Portugal, India, or France. The simple filigree designs of the early 1820s evolved into cannetille during the following decade, spreading across Europe.
The rise of cannetille can be attributed to the scarcity of precious metals in the early 19th century, particularly after the Napoleonic wars. Despite economic difficulties, there was still a demand for grand jewellery. Cannetille, being large yet requiring only a small amount of gold, was an ideal solution. Although labour-intensive, the affordability was maintained by low labour costs.
Additionally, cannetille jewellery resonated with a romantic and nostalgic aesthetic prevalent in Europe at the time. In France, with the return of the Bourbon monarchs, there was a resurgence of interest in pre-revolutionary styles, like that of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. In Germany, figures like Goethe and Novalis celebrated nature and the past, creating an allure for authentic, traditional designs. Cannetille, reminiscent of rural women's traditional attire, perfectly complemented this aesthetic. It's likely that city dwellers encountered such garments during their visits to rural festivals.
As quickly as cannetille emerged, it faded from fashion. Its peak popularity in civil fashion was around 1830. Pieces without clear dating clues like hallmarks or provenance are often estimated to be from around this time.
The Illusion of Gold Plate
Upon first glance, one might mistake this pendant for gold-plated metal. However, closer inspection reveals its true nature. The heavy 22ct gilding gives the appearance of gold plate over a lesser value metal. Testing using XRF (X-ray fluorescence) technology indicated that the base metal is likely 15ct gold, with the 22ct gold gilding—a common practice during the time of production.
During the Georgian era, heavily gilding jewellery was a way to achieve a rich, luxurious look while conserving precious gold. Goldsmiths would use a lesser quality metal as a base and apply a thick layer of gold plating or gilding to achieve the desired appearance. Today gold plating is mostly done to very low cost base metal such as brass or nickel but in Georgian times gold over gold was not uncommon.
XRF Testing and Metal Purity
XRF testing is a non-destructive method used to analyse the elemental composition of materials. In the case of jewellery, it can determine the purity of metals like gold and silver. By bombarding the sample with X-rays, the machine measures the fluorescent X-rays emitted, providing information about the metal's composition.
Closed back settings
Closed back settings were commonly used in antique jewellery, particularly during the Georgian period (1714–c.1837). Here’s why:
Setting: A prevalent style during this era was the “crimpled collet.” In this setting, prong-like claws securely held gemstones and helped keep moisture out of closed-back pieces. The closed back design ensured that no part of the stone below the girdle was visible.
Gemstones: Clear gemstones like diamonds, rock crystal, and paste were set in silver or white metal mounts. Closed-back settings often included a thin sheet of silvered foil to enhance reflectivity. Sometimes coloured foils were used to make stones appear as more valuable gemstones.
In summary, closed-back settings served both practical and aesthetic purposes in antique jewellery, ensuring gemstone security and enhancing their visual appeal.
Aquamarine and its History
Aquamarine is the blue member of the beryl family and ranges from very pale blue to deep blues and sometimes greens. Most aquamarine that is commercially available today has been heat treated to enhance its colour. The most valuable aquamarines are those that have a deep blue even colour and no inclusions. It is a durable stone and makes an excellent choice for jewellery. It grows as hexagonal shaped crystals and is often found associated with mica crystals.
Aquamarine has a rich history dating back thousands of years. Its name comes from the Latin words "aqua" (water) and "marina" (of the sea), reflecting its beautiful sea-blue colour.
Ancient civilizations, including the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, prized aquamarine for its beauty and believed it had protective and healing properties. In medieval Europe, aquamarine was thought to bring happiness in marriage and to make the wearer more friendly and amiable.
Aquamarine has been used throughout history in jewellery, decorative objects, and even as a talisman for sailors, believed to protect them from dangers at sea.
Metaphysical Properties
Aquamarine is associated with the throat chakra, promoting clear communication and self-expression. It is believed to calm the mind, reduce stress, and bring a sense of peace and tranquillity. Aquamarine is often used in meditation to enhance spiritual awareness and connection to higher realms. It is also considered a stone of courage and inner strength, helping to overcome fears and phobias. Some believe that aquamarine can enhance intuition and psychic abilities, aiding in spiritual growth and understanding. Physically, aquamarine is said to support the immune system, alleviate allergies, and soothe inflammation.
Summarising Excellence
In conclusion, this Georgian cannetille gold and aquamarine pendant is an excellent example of the period's craftsmanship and style. Its intricate design, combined with the use of high-quality materials, showcases the artistry and attention to detail that defined high jewellery of the period. As we admire this piece, we're reminded of a time when elegance and sophistication reigned supreme in the world of fashion and adornment.
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